Helmet Liner
This is a helmet liner to be worn under a military (or motorcycle) helmet. It takes most of a 100 gram skein of knitting worsted weight wool yarn such as Nature Spun, Cascade 220 or Patons Classic Wool. I typically use a size 6 or 7 needle to cast on, a 5 for the middle portion of the neck ribbing, a 6 or 7 for the cap and a 5 for the face ribbing. I use a 16 inch circular needle for the ribbing and most of the cap portion; double point needles are necessary for the face ribbing and the top of the cap.
You need a gauge of 4.5 - 5 sts per inch (the ribbing helps compensate for variations in gauge and head size). 2 sizes are given, use whichever one works for your gauge and the size of the recipient.
At 5 sts/in over stockinette st co 92 (96) sts 2 x 2 ribbing for 5.5 in or as long as you want the neck covering to be. knit 54 (58) sts for cap. Hold the rest for face ribbing (38 sts) on the smaller needle. CO 42 (46) sts (provisional for cap).
For the provisional cast on use a length of slippery cotton (#3 perle cotton works very well as does smooth crochet cotton) and crochet a loose chain of 52 - 56 sts using a hook about the same size as your knitting needles (it is easier to handle if you have a couple of chain sts on either end of the cast on).
A couple of sts from the end start picking up a loop in the back bump of each chain stitch. Pick up 42 (48) sts and then join to the back of the cap; be careful not to twist the sts. Maintain the ribbing across the back of the cap and stockinette st across the front.
Knit 4 in straight then dec 8 sts every other round, do not continue ribbing into the decreases, work that part in stockinette st.
When you have 40 sts remaining dec every round. When you get down to very few sts fasten off and weave in the yarn end. (Decreases may be worked by K2tog or SSK, your choice. Just decrease evenly around, every other round.)
Carefully pull the crochet chain out of the sts. You can pull slowly and catch each st on a needle as you go. I prefer to put a needle through the sts before pulling the chain sts out. I generally use a needle 2 sizes smaller than I'll use to knit with. (For example, I generally knit the face ribbing on a 5 needle, so I catch the sts with a 3.) For the face ribbing join the yarn at one side and establish 2 x 2 ribbing around. The sts held on the needle will start the rib pattern. If there are gaps at the sides you can pick up a st (invent one) and knit (or purl, whichever is appropriate) it together with one of the regular sts.
Knit an inch or so of ribbing, decrease about an inch from the sides on upper and lower edge. Bind off loosely. Finish off the ends.
Pattern copyrighted 2008 by Anne Bowman. You may give this pattern to anyone but please leave this copyright notice. Anything you make from this pattern is yours. You may sell it if you like, just please don't sell the pattern.
Topless Mittens
These are ribbed mittens, open at the top so the fingers are free. You may adjust the stitch count and lengths to suit your wearer.
Instructions are given for two sizes; use your gauge and the hand size to choose. Gauge should be 4.5 to 5 sts per inch over stockinette; appx 6 sts per in on un-stretched ribbing.
You'll need about 1.5 - 3 oz of knitting worsted weight wool yarn such as Nature Spun, Cascade 220 or Patons Classic Wool. I use size 5 double point needles -- 5 per mitten -- and work both at the same time. Use the needles that give you the proper gauge and a knitted fabric that you like. If you need more/fewer sts to get a mitten that fits please adjust for fit!
Cast on 44 (48) sts; divide on 3 or 4 needles, join (be careful not to twist) mark the beginning of the row, and knit 2 x 2 ribbing for as long as you want the cuff to be. (2 x 2 ribbing = k2 p2)
Thumb gusset: You will maintain the 2 x 2 ribbing on the thumb so mark off the 2 purl sts nearest the beginning of the row. Set up your thumb increases using the method you prefer; I use the old M1* increase but I think a knit in front and back of the stitch might be more effective.
A combination method: for the first thumb inc M1 P2 M1 inside your markers. The increases are every other row. On your second increase use the K in front and back of the sts you made in the first increase row. * You can "balance" the M1 increases by twisting the loops in opposite directions for each end of the thumb gusset.
Maintain the ribbing as you go.
When you have 22 (24) thumb sts it is time to work the thumb after the last increase row. Place the "hand" sts on a smooth cotton thread (#3 perle cotton is my favorite), place the thumb sts on 3 needles and join. It's a little awkward but give a good tug on that join st and it will be OK. (Leave a long-ish tail of yarn when you join the yarn for the hand and you can "snug it up" when tucking in the loose end.)
Work in ribbing as long as you want the thumb to be (I usually go 8 - 10 rows which seems long enough for warmth and to keep the tip of the thumb free.) Bind off loosely in ribbing and work the end in.
Hand: Replace the hand sts onto 3 or 4 needles. At the middle of the place where the thumb attaches to the hand (where you joined the thumb sts to form the tube) join the yarn and pick up 2 sts. (I use a crochet hook to pick up these sts) and work in ribbing around. (Leave that long tail to snug up any looseness.)
Continue in ribbing until the hand is as long as it needs to be, for most hands that's about 2.5 - 3 inches.
Bind off loosely in rib and tuck in the loose ends.
Pattern copyrighted 2008 by Anne Bowman. You may give this pattern to anyone but please leave this copyright notice. Anything you make from this pattern is yours. You may sell it if you like, just please don't sell the pattern.
